Bella Belize

The hot and colorful Caribbean had us leaving the Latin vibe of Mexico and entering the English speaking Creole and Garifuna cultures of sunny Bella Belize. Cruising among sugar cane fields on bumpy roads our spirits were up and our guards down which led to our first police incident. At the first checkpoint within the Belizean border we were hassled by the law and before we realized it our car was being driven to the police station by a corrupt cop who proposed a bribe solution. Getting our wits together we managed to establish a quick plan and left the disappointed official at a gas station peeling out and zooming south towards Dangriga. Later we found out that driving in Belize without car insurance is actually a big deal. Oops.

Small sleepy fishing towns where found a plenty in Belize as Dangriga, Hopkins, Placencia, and Punta Gorda all provided us with a feel for the range of diversity in this slow moving country. Colorfully painted yet weather worn waterfront homes and shacks littered the Caribbean as small beaches with crystal clear glassy water provided one with perfect views of the sea life below. The endless Rastafarian vibe with morning reggae music flowing out of every window had us wandering around in a state of imbalance trying to figure out the cultural mix and where things seemed to be going. But one doesn’t figure out in Belize one just enjoys and goes with it. It bee aarrrright man.

After enjoying some good beach camping in Hopkins as a friendly caretaker named Diego gave us enough coconuts for a lifetime we headed to the touristier Placencia. Here we wondered around, met a handful of interesting folks and gathered some solid information about whitewater rivers in southern Belize from a friendly bar owner who was endeavoring to establish a heli-drop kayaking business in Belize. With AJ’s advice we headed towards the Moho River in the southern highlands near the Guatemalan border. The Moho River flowed smoothing as it winded calmly through the jungle with waterfall after waterfall dropping into the slow pool like water below. The river provided solid thrills with the drops ranging from 2-12ft with a handful of longer rapids in-between. Vic and I made a great team as Vic scouted the drops for me and I pulled him along during the flat sections. Did I mention Vic made the first descent down the Moho River in a longboard? A night of sleeping on uncomfy palm frawns while sharing a small bivy sack had us up early to the second day of the scenic Moho. Abe greeted us at the take out with stories of his river fishing attempts and insect hunting in the jungle. Off to Punta Gorda we went.

Upon entering the small town of PG we met a friendly Peace Corp. volunteer named Mike from New York who welcomed us into his home. After cleaning up we all went out for a large oriental dinner and the introductions began. The amount of volunteer and aid organizations in Punta Gorda was outstanding as we met friendly folks from all of them. The kindness of the aid workers mixed with the laid back vibes of the locals and then with those passing through allowed PG to keep a steady stream of new faces and dynamic energy. The hot nights mixed with an occasional breeze and misty rain allowed us to relax and eat well while new friends shared stories over belkins and reggae music. Leaving Punta Gorda for Guatemala we looked back on the relaxed pace of Belize, friendly inhabitants, jungle rivers, Caribbean tunes, and washed out pastel buildings. Vamos a Guatemala!!

San Cristobal de las Casas to Belize

Peeking through the surrounding clouds within the sheltered pine forest, San Cristobal de las Casas welcomed us with a misty drizzle. We stayed at a lovely hostel and ventured into the colonial town of Chiapas to explore among the patter of the rain. The cool mountain air and small droplets gave us new energy on a trip full of sun and heat. Dancing among the puddles we wondered around amazing markets, met friendly artisans, sipped warm hot chocolate and ate tasty pastries. The nights gave way to new friends made in the comfortable hostel where pasta dinners, fresh juices, posh and tasty salads were split among new amigos from six different countries. Day trips to San Juan Chamula allowed us to take a look into an exclusively Mayan village, where animal sacrifices and old healing methods still take place within the church and colorful markets clutter the plaza square. Picture taking is forbidden for it steals the soul of the subject. Many hugs and emails were exchanged as we departed San Cristobal de las Casas and all the friendly travelers we met.

On the way to visit the jungle ruins of Palenque and Calakmul a long Zapatista road block stalled our progress along the mountain roads. A night in the jungle had us awakening to the calls of howler monkeys and an early entrance into the famous ruins of Palenque. Tall Mayan pyramids shadowed the jungle below as cool water creeks weaved in and out of the lofty structures. Walking among the tourists we headed out of the park, overwhelmed and looked forward to the less visited ruins of Calakmul. After a long drive through the canopy covered highway to the ranger station of Calakmul we made friends with the forest rangers and set up camp. With some enthusiastic natural history lessons and solid advice on a sunrise start to the ruins, we slept among wild mountain turkeys dreaming of exploring the 100 sq/km with 6500 structures, hidden like gems in the dense overgrowth. An alpine start had us on top of one of the pyramids for the sunrise over the rainforest where monkeys jumped through trees, howlers awoke the jungle, colorful birds flew toward the sun, and ones eyes lost focus as the jungle stretched beyond view in all directions. Playing explorer we had the ruins to ourselves to discover as we climbed tropical trees, uncovered hidden pottery, slept in Mayan mansions, yelled over the canopy, chassed wild turkeys and wandered the miles of overgrown trails. We finished a 12 hour day of running around the ruins with an amazing sunset as we sat atop of the jungle canopy looking towards Guatemala and reflecting upon our solitude within the ancient capitol city of the kingdom of the Serpents Head.

Leaving the Mayan ruins and thick jungle we departed Mexico after two months of travel through such an amazing country. A hint of remorse arose, yet was soon healed by the ocean breeze, crystal blue-green water and unique Caribbean vibes of Belize. With only a little trouble and many hoops to jump through at the border we were soon cruising down the Hummingbird highway, through fields of sugar cane and rows of citrus trees, with our passports stamped.

Playa Ventura to Tuxtla Gutiérrez, Chiapas

Puerto Escondido welcomed us with its rolling surf and fun loving traveler vibe where we lounged in our beach side grass hut for a couple of days. The waves awoke us por la manana for early surf & bouldering sessions, followed by afternoons of hammock time and evening walks on the beach, as the sand lit up with each step, releasing a unique luminescent energy in glowing bursts. Next stop, the low key backpacker hideaway of Mazunte which allowed for more relaxation time on the Oaxacan coast. Tucked away among the trees, the makeshift campsite provided freedom to an eclectic group of travelers mixed with “rainbow” gatherers. The excellent beach bouldering gave us a morning activity as the midday sun came with mandatory siestas and dips in the Pacific. Noches of care free reggae music, jungle hikes to town, colorful sunsets, drum circles, Italian love songs and sticky sleep filled our dreams as we entered inland Oaxaca. The curvy roads had us keeping a keen lookout for the capital city and its flat valley floor. Camping among the shadows of Monte Alban under the watchful eye of a goat herder we awoke early to explore the fabulous Zapotec Ruins that look over the colonial city of Oaxaca. Monte Alban blew us away with its intricate acropolis, large temples, and rich history. Leaving the fabled ruins we wondered around La Ciudad de Oaxaca exploring the maze of markets and beautiful architecture before departing for a long journey to Chiapas.

After a long drive through some spectacular mountains littered with agave fields we arrived in Tuxtla Gutiérrez the capital of Chiapas. Another amazing family greeted us with open arms as they provided us with a fresh shower, food and great company. Mama Nanni was ever the amazing hostess providing delicious food, friendly conversation and insights into la vida de Chiapas. We said our goodbyes to the kind ladies and promised to return to explore the canons, rivers and more of the culture of Tuxtla. We now enter the mountains of Chiapas where the jungles of Mexico and Central America begin with the hidden colonial city of San Cristobal de las Casas while the many ruins of the surrounding selva await us with there Mayan secrets.

Guanajuato to Acapulco

The colonial mountain city of Guanajuato greeted us with its entire splendor, as the pastel homes squeezed together forming narrow cobblestone paths leading to lush plazas, colorful markets, breathtaking architecture, and hidden monuments. The streets bustled with pedestrian traffic and laughter as cars weaved in and out of the hidden tunnels below the magical city. Later that day we met two lovely art students that showed us around and explained the rich history of this enchanted place. After roaming the streets and being dazzled by the many hidden secrets within Guanajuato we dropped south and climbed with the green mountains to reach the monarch reserve. Hiking up to 3,000m had us winded but in high spirits as thousands of monarch butterflies fluttered around us awakening to the afternoon sun. The mariposas carried us along our way and we roared down the curvy roads to Ixtapan de la Sal to visit my good friend Jonatan. Time stood still yet again as we passed half a week with the Perez family, ate home cooked meals, bathed in hot springs, celebrated carnival, prepared asados, tuned the car, and enjoyed the amazing hospitality of such a friendly family. Waving goodbye to our wonderful hosts we headed south to explore the giant caves of Cacahuamilpa where 82m high chambers opened up to a show of stalagmites and stalactites as shadows danced along the cavern walls creating dream like images.

Leaving the impressive caves we headed to Taxco where the mountainous road shot us right into the middle of the Mexican silver capital. Compact whitewash houses huddled together among the hillside as VW beetles raced along the narrow streets. The silver market was alive with visitors admiring the beautiful plata works and roaming up and down the steep side roads. It was easy to get turned around in Taxco but one could always rely on the immaculate Cathedral as a guide. After wondering around Taxco for a couple days we stepped out of the colonial world and headed to the busy Acapulco for beach time and airport runs. We found an out of the way hotel near the cliff divers that allowed us to rest, explore the “buildering” opportunities of the city and bid a proper farewell to our dear Anthony. 3,500 miles and 35 days later we dropped off Anthony at the airport and wished him luck in Morocco. It was sad to see Anthony go and he shall be missed, yet the journey continues as a new chapter begins with arrivals from our dear Heather for a quick visit on the coast and our new traveling amigo Abe.

Off to the state of Oaxaca we go, where the waves of Puerto Escondido, ancient ruins, climbing and kayaking await. Epa!!

Sayulita to Guadalajara = Climb on!!

The sound of waves echoed in the distance as we rolled on towards Guadalajara with our new traveling amigo, Francisco (a traveling artisan who we met in Sayulita). Good fortune found us yet again when Francisco offered us food and shelter for the lift to his casa. After eating the best hamburgers in Mexico we met Christian, Iguana and the rest of the La Banda. The good vibes continued as we were introduced to the local climbers and the easy going Iguana showed us around the climbing areas of Guadalajara. The climbing began in El Diente with its massive boulders and graffiti covered rock. Chalked and ready to go the next day we moved a little further west for four days at El Cuajo. The mornings brought uninvited cattle guests, cool breezes, and day hikes to waterfalls and swimming holes. There we ate mangos, papaya, plantains, and sweet lemons from the surrounding flora as we climbed up slippery ledges and leaped into the refreshing turquoise water below. The afternoons came with siestas followed by getting stoked for climbing hard at El Cuajo with its soaring walls rising above farmland that dipped in and out of canons, where the only order resided within the maze of stone walls.

The steep Canon of Huaxtla called our attention one afternoon as we spent a large portion of the time route finding and then battling our way out on one of the many hard multi-pitch routes. The sun set on the green lichen covered walls as we strolled through agave fields and finished our climbing with a roaring bonfire talking about the many untapped cliff bands in the area.

Our time in Guadalajara ended in a festive manner as we joined La Banda in the colonial streets of San Pedro sharing stories and admiring the scenery. We were sad to leave our new friends from Guadalajara but new horizons unfold as we head for the mountain gem of Guanajuato.

Cabo San Lucas to Sayulita, Mexico

Cabo San Lucas with its gringo filled streets, booming resorts and wild nightlife provided us with our first hotel thus far on our trip. A back alley motel ran by a lovely Mexican family that showed us great hospitality and kindness became our resting ground. We all cleaned up and off we went to enjoy Anthony’s birthday, a day of the elusive Arco, tequila tasting and amazing meat sandwiches, too large for one sitting. After resting and running around Cabo we took off for La Paz. A scenic drive along the Sea of Cortez side of Baja found us sending some solid boulder problems within a dried up river bed, as cattle watched dumbfounded. La Paz proved to be a very beautiful city with its never-ending beach walk, palapas and diverse cuisine. A place where Mexicans seem to come for vacation, and not just sun seeking foreigners. With all our papers in order we were off to mainland Mexico, 5 hours later Topolobampo would provide us with shelter for the night before a long drive to Tecuala.

Driving through the countryside of Mexico with wild flowers glistening among farmland as volcanos loomed over, was truly remarkable. The days end led us to Tecuala a small city within Nayarit where narrow cobblestone streets and colorful houses showed us the way to the house of Lina; a wonderful lady in her 70’s and aunt of a friend from the States. She greeted us with a hint of suspicion; my friend never told her we were coming. Oops! After numerous phone calls and translation was sorted out, she smiled, smacking us on the shoulders and yelling gleefully. The people of Tecuala were remarkabley generous as everyone greeted us with smiles, free food, coconuts and good spirits; for we could well have been the first gringos they have interacted with. Lina’s family showed us around town as she cooked us wonderful local meals of fish, menudo and chorizo. After two nights we were off again, this time to visit Lina’s niece in Tepic.

Tepic was a large city that had us lost within its districts in no time. Lina’s niece, Sonya came to our rescue full of kind sarcasm and smiles. She fed us and then shoed us out of the house with her daughter and son acting as willing guides among the capital of Nayirt. We walked for hours among the streets of Tepic, enjoying the numerous parks, a tour of Universidad de Tepic, open air concerts, elder dances, large murals, fantastic cathedral and curious locals. Again we were treated with amazing generosity by the Zamoranos. The next day started with a long hike up a nearby peak for views of the city and surrounding landscape. Sonya cooked another wonderful meal complete with fresh squeezed pineapple juice before we got on the road to Sayulita.

Sayulita unveiled itself among thick jungle foliage littered with palm trees that huddled over the white sandy beach, giving away to perfect waves. Backpackers, honeymooners, retired surfers, young families, locals and Mexican tourists all came together to create the unique and friendly vibe of this once undiscovered town. We arrived with lady luck on our side and stumbled upon two very friendly and generous Victorians who let us park in their beach front lot and later provided us with a guest house to rest in. The nights came with beach bonfires, botellons, reggae music, the best tacos al pastor on earth and the sound of crashing waves. Days were started and finished with sunrise and sunset surf sessions as the warm water soothed our traveling bodies. A wonderful place, straight out of a Corona commercial, with a laid back vibe, friendly locals, talented artists, breathtaking scenery, and a colorful downtown which was only magnified that much more in our minds due to the inestimable kindness of our hosts, Derek and Megan. Soon we will depart Sayulita and head further inland near Guadalajara to seek the climbing we have heard so much about.

LA to Lugui Baja, Mexico

Sandy Beaches, rolling hills, desert Cardon, blue waters, tecate, astro vans, datson trucks, cowboy hats, sunburned gringos, and broken seashells. These images and countless more are what make up the first leg of our journey, the easygoing Baja, Mexico.

We drove through the US / Mexican border around 6:00 am 1/9/08, no stops and no hellos, just through an open gate and viola we were in Mexico. After getting all the necessary paper work done in Ensenada we shipped off and spent our first night 15km of the Hwy. 1 on a rough dirt road that led to the wild and rustic beach of Punta Baja. We gazed with excitement as the rolling green hills smashed into the sea cliffs and left jagged rock along the shores. There was no one in sight for miles and we were going to spend our first night in Baja!! Three friends, three tecate ballenas, epic jurassic style scenery and a glorious sunset. La Buena Vida!

After leaving the rolling hills of Northern Baja we came upon the true Baja, desert, crumbly escarpments, cardon cacti and boojum trees. We stopped in Catavina and camped among the chalk stone boulders the size of houses in the middle of the desert. Climb On!! The next day was spent sending and getting shrugged off of some classic problems where the only thing fiercer than the spiky cacti or blazing sun was the sheer coarseness of the granite boulders. Great problems sent, great scars made!

Our next stop found us lost among fishing camps searching for abandoned lighthouses, yet none were found. We did however, find a hidden surf community where gringos set up winter camp and surfed the crystal blue rollers in a secret bay. Good people and good surf. To bad they ran out of tecate in the center hut.

On the road again, we passed through numerous Federales check points and the boyish looking soldiers waved us along after a few basic questions; "Drugas o Armas?" "No senor!" we responded. The island littered Sea of Cortez provides the next few days of camping with stunning views, beach boulders (I damn near broke my neck though, see flickr photos), conversational snowbirds, Rum - the pirates would be proud, and relaxation to the max.

We have been on the road for 10 days now and are still exploring Southern Baja as the small pueblo of Todos Santos with its wonderful surf and easy living atmosphere provides our current tree house accommodations. Next stop fiesta fiesta in Los Cabos as we plan to celebrate Anthony's birthday and treat ourselves to our first hostel.