Cabo San Lucas to Sayulita, Mexico

Cabo San Lucas with its gringo filled streets, booming resorts and wild nightlife provided us with our first hotel thus far on our trip. A back alley motel ran by a lovely Mexican family that showed us great hospitality and kindness became our resting ground. We all cleaned up and off we went to enjoy Anthony’s birthday, a day of the elusive Arco, tequila tasting and amazing meat sandwiches, too large for one sitting. After resting and running around Cabo we took off for La Paz. A scenic drive along the Sea of Cortez side of Baja found us sending some solid boulder problems within a dried up river bed, as cattle watched dumbfounded. La Paz proved to be a very beautiful city with its never-ending beach walk, palapas and diverse cuisine. A place where Mexicans seem to come for vacation, and not just sun seeking foreigners. With all our papers in order we were off to mainland Mexico, 5 hours later Topolobampo would provide us with shelter for the night before a long drive to Tecuala.

Driving through the countryside of Mexico with wild flowers glistening among farmland as volcanos loomed over, was truly remarkable. The days end led us to Tecuala a small city within Nayarit where narrow cobblestone streets and colorful houses showed us the way to the house of Lina; a wonderful lady in her 70’s and aunt of a friend from the States. She greeted us with a hint of suspicion; my friend never told her we were coming. Oops! After numerous phone calls and translation was sorted out, she smiled, smacking us on the shoulders and yelling gleefully. The people of Tecuala were remarkabley generous as everyone greeted us with smiles, free food, coconuts and good spirits; for we could well have been the first gringos they have interacted with. Lina’s family showed us around town as she cooked us wonderful local meals of fish, menudo and chorizo. After two nights we were off again, this time to visit Lina’s niece in Tepic.

Tepic was a large city that had us lost within its districts in no time. Lina’s niece, Sonya came to our rescue full of kind sarcasm and smiles. She fed us and then shoed us out of the house with her daughter and son acting as willing guides among the capital of Nayirt. We walked for hours among the streets of Tepic, enjoying the numerous parks, a tour of Universidad de Tepic, open air concerts, elder dances, large murals, fantastic cathedral and curious locals. Again we were treated with amazing generosity by the Zamoranos. The next day started with a long hike up a nearby peak for views of the city and surrounding landscape. Sonya cooked another wonderful meal complete with fresh squeezed pineapple juice before we got on the road to Sayulita.

Sayulita unveiled itself among thick jungle foliage littered with palm trees that huddled over the white sandy beach, giving away to perfect waves. Backpackers, honeymooners, retired surfers, young families, locals and Mexican tourists all came together to create the unique and friendly vibe of this once undiscovered town. We arrived with lady luck on our side and stumbled upon two very friendly and generous Victorians who let us park in their beach front lot and later provided us with a guest house to rest in. The nights came with beach bonfires, botellons, reggae music, the best tacos al pastor on earth and the sound of crashing waves. Days were started and finished with sunrise and sunset surf sessions as the warm water soothed our traveling bodies. A wonderful place, straight out of a Corona commercial, with a laid back vibe, friendly locals, talented artists, breathtaking scenery, and a colorful downtown which was only magnified that much more in our minds due to the inestimable kindness of our hosts, Derek and Megan. Soon we will depart Sayulita and head further inland near Guadalajara to seek the climbing we have heard so much about.

LA to Lugui Baja, Mexico

Sandy Beaches, rolling hills, desert Cardon, blue waters, tecate, astro vans, datson trucks, cowboy hats, sunburned gringos, and broken seashells. These images and countless more are what make up the first leg of our journey, the easygoing Baja, Mexico.

We drove through the US / Mexican border around 6:00 am 1/9/08, no stops and no hellos, just through an open gate and viola we were in Mexico. After getting all the necessary paper work done in Ensenada we shipped off and spent our first night 15km of the Hwy. 1 on a rough dirt road that led to the wild and rustic beach of Punta Baja. We gazed with excitement as the rolling green hills smashed into the sea cliffs and left jagged rock along the shores. There was no one in sight for miles and we were going to spend our first night in Baja!! Three friends, three tecate ballenas, epic jurassic style scenery and a glorious sunset. La Buena Vida!

After leaving the rolling hills of Northern Baja we came upon the true Baja, desert, crumbly escarpments, cardon cacti and boojum trees. We stopped in Catavina and camped among the chalk stone boulders the size of houses in the middle of the desert. Climb On!! The next day was spent sending and getting shrugged off of some classic problems where the only thing fiercer than the spiky cacti or blazing sun was the sheer coarseness of the granite boulders. Great problems sent, great scars made!

Our next stop found us lost among fishing camps searching for abandoned lighthouses, yet none were found. We did however, find a hidden surf community where gringos set up winter camp and surfed the crystal blue rollers in a secret bay. Good people and good surf. To bad they ran out of tecate in the center hut.

On the road again, we passed through numerous Federales check points and the boyish looking soldiers waved us along after a few basic questions; "Drugas o Armas?" "No senor!" we responded. The island littered Sea of Cortez provides the next few days of camping with stunning views, beach boulders (I damn near broke my neck though, see flickr photos), conversational snowbirds, Rum - the pirates would be proud, and relaxation to the max.

We have been on the road for 10 days now and are still exploring Southern Baja as the small pueblo of Todos Santos with its wonderful surf and easy living atmosphere provides our current tree house accommodations. Next stop fiesta fiesta in Los Cabos as we plan to celebrate Anthony's birthday and treat ourselves to our first hostel.