Bella Belize

The hot and colorful Caribbean had us leaving the Latin vibe of Mexico and entering the English speaking Creole and Garifuna cultures of sunny Bella Belize. Cruising among sugar cane fields on bumpy roads our spirits were up and our guards down which led to our first police incident. At the first checkpoint within the Belizean border we were hassled by the law and before we realized it our car was being driven to the police station by a corrupt cop who proposed a bribe solution. Getting our wits together we managed to establish a quick plan and left the disappointed official at a gas station peeling out and zooming south towards Dangriga. Later we found out that driving in Belize without car insurance is actually a big deal. Oops.

Small sleepy fishing towns where found a plenty in Belize as Dangriga, Hopkins, Placencia, and Punta Gorda all provided us with a feel for the range of diversity in this slow moving country. Colorfully painted yet weather worn waterfront homes and shacks littered the Caribbean as small beaches with crystal clear glassy water provided one with perfect views of the sea life below. The endless Rastafarian vibe with morning reggae music flowing out of every window had us wandering around in a state of imbalance trying to figure out the cultural mix and where things seemed to be going. But one doesn’t figure out in Belize one just enjoys and goes with it. It bee aarrrright man.

After enjoying some good beach camping in Hopkins as a friendly caretaker named Diego gave us enough coconuts for a lifetime we headed to the touristier Placencia. Here we wondered around, met a handful of interesting folks and gathered some solid information about whitewater rivers in southern Belize from a friendly bar owner who was endeavoring to establish a heli-drop kayaking business in Belize. With AJ’s advice we headed towards the Moho River in the southern highlands near the Guatemalan border. The Moho River flowed smoothing as it winded calmly through the jungle with waterfall after waterfall dropping into the slow pool like water below. The river provided solid thrills with the drops ranging from 2-12ft with a handful of longer rapids in-between. Vic and I made a great team as Vic scouted the drops for me and I pulled him along during the flat sections. Did I mention Vic made the first descent down the Moho River in a longboard? A night of sleeping on uncomfy palm frawns while sharing a small bivy sack had us up early to the second day of the scenic Moho. Abe greeted us at the take out with stories of his river fishing attempts and insect hunting in the jungle. Off to Punta Gorda we went.

Upon entering the small town of PG we met a friendly Peace Corp. volunteer named Mike from New York who welcomed us into his home. After cleaning up we all went out for a large oriental dinner and the introductions began. The amount of volunteer and aid organizations in Punta Gorda was outstanding as we met friendly folks from all of them. The kindness of the aid workers mixed with the laid back vibes of the locals and then with those passing through allowed PG to keep a steady stream of new faces and dynamic energy. The hot nights mixed with an occasional breeze and misty rain allowed us to relax and eat well while new friends shared stories over belkins and reggae music. Leaving Punta Gorda for Guatemala we looked back on the relaxed pace of Belize, friendly inhabitants, jungle rivers, Caribbean tunes, and washed out pastel buildings. Vamos a Guatemala!!

San Cristobal de las Casas to Belize

Peeking through the surrounding clouds within the sheltered pine forest, San Cristobal de las Casas welcomed us with a misty drizzle. We stayed at a lovely hostel and ventured into the colonial town of Chiapas to explore among the patter of the rain. The cool mountain air and small droplets gave us new energy on a trip full of sun and heat. Dancing among the puddles we wondered around amazing markets, met friendly artisans, sipped warm hot chocolate and ate tasty pastries. The nights gave way to new friends made in the comfortable hostel where pasta dinners, fresh juices, posh and tasty salads were split among new amigos from six different countries. Day trips to San Juan Chamula allowed us to take a look into an exclusively Mayan village, where animal sacrifices and old healing methods still take place within the church and colorful markets clutter the plaza square. Picture taking is forbidden for it steals the soul of the subject. Many hugs and emails were exchanged as we departed San Cristobal de las Casas and all the friendly travelers we met.

On the way to visit the jungle ruins of Palenque and Calakmul a long Zapatista road block stalled our progress along the mountain roads. A night in the jungle had us awakening to the calls of howler monkeys and an early entrance into the famous ruins of Palenque. Tall Mayan pyramids shadowed the jungle below as cool water creeks weaved in and out of the lofty structures. Walking among the tourists we headed out of the park, overwhelmed and looked forward to the less visited ruins of Calakmul. After a long drive through the canopy covered highway to the ranger station of Calakmul we made friends with the forest rangers and set up camp. With some enthusiastic natural history lessons and solid advice on a sunrise start to the ruins, we slept among wild mountain turkeys dreaming of exploring the 100 sq/km with 6500 structures, hidden like gems in the dense overgrowth. An alpine start had us on top of one of the pyramids for the sunrise over the rainforest where monkeys jumped through trees, howlers awoke the jungle, colorful birds flew toward the sun, and ones eyes lost focus as the jungle stretched beyond view in all directions. Playing explorer we had the ruins to ourselves to discover as we climbed tropical trees, uncovered hidden pottery, slept in Mayan mansions, yelled over the canopy, chassed wild turkeys and wandered the miles of overgrown trails. We finished a 12 hour day of running around the ruins with an amazing sunset as we sat atop of the jungle canopy looking towards Guatemala and reflecting upon our solitude within the ancient capitol city of the kingdom of the Serpents Head.

Leaving the Mayan ruins and thick jungle we departed Mexico after two months of travel through such an amazing country. A hint of remorse arose, yet was soon healed by the ocean breeze, crystal blue-green water and unique Caribbean vibes of Belize. With only a little trouble and many hoops to jump through at the border we were soon cruising down the Hummingbird highway, through fields of sugar cane and rows of citrus trees, with our passports stamped.