Climb Argentina and The Journey Back to Cali

The Peruvian beach of Huanchaco provides all the necessities that I require for a relaxing week of surf and sun. The perfect meter to two meter waves roll consistently left as the local lineup is full of smiling faces. The town itself still holds its fishing village culture in tact while catering to the influx of sun seeking tourists. One can wonder around the many colorful tightly packed houses encountering hidden plazas, friendly locals, and a good meal. Enjoying the cool night while I relax in the beach front park my conscience takes a stroll through the corridors of my fondest memories opening the doors of the last two months climbing through Argentina and spending time with family and friends.

The magical class V no exit canyon of El Rio Puelo was a perfect trip to end our whitewater tiempo en Chile. Two Frenchies, One American, a lost boat, scrambling up steep cliffs, powerful no scout rapids, and anxious waiting as our lost companion reappeared at the end of the canyon wet, bloody and tired; yet his smile still sparkled when he saw us and our black berry stained hands embraced. The rest of the journey we were taken care of by the humble Chilean mountain folk as plates were filled with fresh bread and cazuela. Only the calm waters waited ahead, passing the next two days eating, drinking and recalling the good times on Chilean whitewater.

Entering Esquel, Argentina for the start of our climbing trip Julian and I already managed to loose the grille and his paddle which randomly reappeared in a taxi we took to the bus terminal. Que suerte. Three days later after climbing hard, watching an impressive forest fire light up the night sky and adjusting our bodies to the use of new muscles we arrived in Bariloche. Showing up unannounced at the house of a climbing couple we took rafting in Chile whom happened to be UIAGM mountain guides we established ourselves for the next month of Bariloche cragging. Entering the hidden home, Ana was chopping wood while Bicho was busy welding chimney parts; we surprised our benefactors whom in a short time would become good friends. After a massive asado outside with climbers from around Bariloche we shared stories, photos, and were given solid beta for the climbing to come.

Our first stop was Valle Encantado where one crosses a river to get lost among shaded criss-crossing paths as volcanic walls appear above the green pine trees. Amazing sport climbing on soft pockety rock where one can rest amidst the shaded pines while you swear there must be smurfs hiding within this enchanted forest. Back at Bicho’s base camp in Bariloche we ate nightly asados and climbed close by at the roadside crag La Ventana. Venturing to Frey we tried our best to enjoy the scenic 4hour hike as our fully loaded packs and kayak legs had our bodies fighting the final steps to the Refugio. Set among beautiful spires and next to a crystal alpine lake El Refugio Frey offers climbers and hikers a place to stay, have a meal, and share mates or cerveza after a day of solid granite climbing. The defined spires hold hundreds of routes, filled with every feature a granite climber could ask for. Sticking to the cracks we savored every jam and the new view the vertical world brought in the breathtaking landscape of Frey.

Back in town we rested by the lake, sampled the local breweries, helped the amigos out in their construction projects and ate many an asado. The following days we explored some of the areas secret spots where our mountain guide friends shared with us their hidden crags and future projects. Splitter cracks running through kind basalt hidden in dry slot canyons as guachos trotted by on their caballos. The areas of Bariloche boasted breathtaking landscape as the climbing was excellent with a variety of rock to choose from. Our time in the Lake District was truly special for the people made every day memorable. The amazing hospitality of our friends and the rest of the local climbing community whom we came to call amigos shared with us their culture and lifestyle in a way that stuck to our hearts as their epic stories, friendly smiles, hard work, patience and unequalled buena onda defined them.

Five days of rain, filled with creeky kayaking, indoor climbing and asados under a roof finally had us make the decision to head North. We said our goodbyes over roasting cordero and vino. Hugs, emails and knifes where exchanged as we traveled to Cordoba where warmer and dryer weather awaited. Our unknown hosts took us in with smiles and received us with open arms and pizza. The hospitality of these strangers, a soon to be married couple and working brother, whom had thousands of preparations to make before the big day was remarkable. We left Meli, Nico and Mariano for our Ola climbing trip; a sport area near the road up to the mountains. The first couple of days were peaceful as the area was ours to explore with the friendly caretaker baking fresh bread every morning. Easter break arrived and climbers flooded the little camping oasis. Ready to get away from the crowds we ventured farther out into the rocky landscape as slabby granite had our fingers screaming for relief. The next few days flew by as we climbed hard and gripped; arriving to camp for mates and tea, while conversations of how hard the grades are erupted between local and international climbers. Nights were spent either in quite solitude or enjoying the campsite festivities; drum circles, song, stories, slackline, full moon tango, midnight bouldering and all together debauchery. The week at La Ola was most excellent.

Returning to Cordoba we enjoyed pizza with our hosts and got ready for Los Gigantes. Almost 3hrs out side of Cordoba capital Los Gigantes boasts hundreds of sport and mixed routes ranging from 15m to 200m in length. The concentrated granite with babbling brooks trickling through mini slot canyons full of green fields amidst virgin towers is a stark comparison to the desert lowlands that one must pass through to reach this mountain oasis. Cold mornings and beautiful climbs had us in good spirits when the sun came out and cursing the mountain gods when the wind attempted to blow us off the sharp granite slab. Our only companions were the condors, falcons, grazing cattle and other small alpine critters. A perfect way to end our Argentina climbing trip; no distractions just eat, climb, eat, climb, eat, and sleep. Leaving Los Gigantes a day early due to nasty weather we got a ride from a local climber who invited us to pass the day watching motocross, eating asado and bebiendo cerveza, porque no? The last days in Cordoba we ate pizza, for the asados in Bariloche were replaced by homemade pizza dinners in Cordoba, climbed indoors, and got ready for the next adventure.

Julian the bold Frenchman from the Alps bid me adieu as he headed back to France. Three months working on El Rio Futaleufu, and two months climbing together, I am going to miss that little rascal and his ridiculous comments, “full power, no gringo styli” “slabby sanchita” and many more. After saying hasta luego to our generous Cordoban hosts and Ju Ju I hopped on a bus headed to Mendoza were family, friends and plenty of wine & food awaited.

A couple of weeks in Mendoza and Buenos Aires were spent visiting bodegas, eating generous meals, reuniting with old friends, enjoying mates in the park, indulging in the Latin nightlife, spending time with my Argentine family y mi madre and resting cuerpo y alma. After many good meals, nights filled with laughter and days of wondering around cities I embarked on a 60+ hour bus ride to Peru where my desire to spend my last week in South America surfing, eating sea food and relaxing took me to the sleepy fishing village turned surf town of Huanchaco.

Looking out over the Pacific as the sun sets while surfers catch their last waves del dia I can recall the first day of the Southbound Journey, 17 months ago, crossing into Mexico where the unknown led us to unforgettable places, memorable friendships and the journey of a lifetime. The wind blows softly while the scent of salt water fills the air, a smile comes to my face for these past 17 months traveling, adventuring and working in the Americas has left me with the most amazing experiences and friendships. The future holds a flight back to California where I will spend the summer working on the Kern River then off to Spain in October to spread the English language and adventure romp through the beautifully sophisticated Europa.

“Never let go of the smiles you ignite along your journey, for they will keep you believing in the charisma and beauty of those around you. “ -AH