Playa Ventura to Tuxtla Gutiérrez, Chiapas

Puerto Escondido welcomed us with its rolling surf and fun loving traveler vibe where we lounged in our beach side grass hut for a couple of days. The waves awoke us por la manana for early surf & bouldering sessions, followed by afternoons of hammock time and evening walks on the beach, as the sand lit up with each step, releasing a unique luminescent energy in glowing bursts. Next stop, the low key backpacker hideaway of Mazunte which allowed for more relaxation time on the Oaxacan coast. Tucked away among the trees, the makeshift campsite provided freedom to an eclectic group of travelers mixed with “rainbow” gatherers. The excellent beach bouldering gave us a morning activity as the midday sun came with mandatory siestas and dips in the Pacific. Noches of care free reggae music, jungle hikes to town, colorful sunsets, drum circles, Italian love songs and sticky sleep filled our dreams as we entered inland Oaxaca. The curvy roads had us keeping a keen lookout for the capital city and its flat valley floor. Camping among the shadows of Monte Alban under the watchful eye of a goat herder we awoke early to explore the fabulous Zapotec Ruins that look over the colonial city of Oaxaca. Monte Alban blew us away with its intricate acropolis, large temples, and rich history. Leaving the fabled ruins we wondered around La Ciudad de Oaxaca exploring the maze of markets and beautiful architecture before departing for a long journey to Chiapas.

After a long drive through some spectacular mountains littered with agave fields we arrived in Tuxtla Gutiérrez the capital of Chiapas. Another amazing family greeted us with open arms as they provided us with a fresh shower, food and great company. Mama Nanni was ever the amazing hostess providing delicious food, friendly conversation and insights into la vida de Chiapas. We said our goodbyes to the kind ladies and promised to return to explore the canons, rivers and more of the culture of Tuxtla. We now enter the mountains of Chiapas where the jungles of Mexico and Central America begin with the hidden colonial city of San Cristobal de las Casas while the many ruins of the surrounding selva await us with there Mayan secrets.

Guanajuato to Acapulco

The colonial mountain city of Guanajuato greeted us with its entire splendor, as the pastel homes squeezed together forming narrow cobblestone paths leading to lush plazas, colorful markets, breathtaking architecture, and hidden monuments. The streets bustled with pedestrian traffic and laughter as cars weaved in and out of the hidden tunnels below the magical city. Later that day we met two lovely art students that showed us around and explained the rich history of this enchanted place. After roaming the streets and being dazzled by the many hidden secrets within Guanajuato we dropped south and climbed with the green mountains to reach the monarch reserve. Hiking up to 3,000m had us winded but in high spirits as thousands of monarch butterflies fluttered around us awakening to the afternoon sun. The mariposas carried us along our way and we roared down the curvy roads to Ixtapan de la Sal to visit my good friend Jonatan. Time stood still yet again as we passed half a week with the Perez family, ate home cooked meals, bathed in hot springs, celebrated carnival, prepared asados, tuned the car, and enjoyed the amazing hospitality of such a friendly family. Waving goodbye to our wonderful hosts we headed south to explore the giant caves of Cacahuamilpa where 82m high chambers opened up to a show of stalagmites and stalactites as shadows danced along the cavern walls creating dream like images.

Leaving the impressive caves we headed to Taxco where the mountainous road shot us right into the middle of the Mexican silver capital. Compact whitewash houses huddled together among the hillside as VW beetles raced along the narrow streets. The silver market was alive with visitors admiring the beautiful plata works and roaming up and down the steep side roads. It was easy to get turned around in Taxco but one could always rely on the immaculate Cathedral as a guide. After wondering around Taxco for a couple days we stepped out of the colonial world and headed to the busy Acapulco for beach time and airport runs. We found an out of the way hotel near the cliff divers that allowed us to rest, explore the “buildering” opportunities of the city and bid a proper farewell to our dear Anthony. 3,500 miles and 35 days later we dropped off Anthony at the airport and wished him luck in Morocco. It was sad to see Anthony go and he shall be missed, yet the journey continues as a new chapter begins with arrivals from our dear Heather for a quick visit on the coast and our new traveling amigo Abe.

Off to the state of Oaxaca we go, where the waves of Puerto Escondido, ancient ruins, climbing and kayaking await. Epa!!

Sayulita to Guadalajara = Climb on!!

The sound of waves echoed in the distance as we rolled on towards Guadalajara with our new traveling amigo, Francisco (a traveling artisan who we met in Sayulita). Good fortune found us yet again when Francisco offered us food and shelter for the lift to his casa. After eating the best hamburgers in Mexico we met Christian, Iguana and the rest of the La Banda. The good vibes continued as we were introduced to the local climbers and the easy going Iguana showed us around the climbing areas of Guadalajara. The climbing began in El Diente with its massive boulders and graffiti covered rock. Chalked and ready to go the next day we moved a little further west for four days at El Cuajo. The mornings brought uninvited cattle guests, cool breezes, and day hikes to waterfalls and swimming holes. There we ate mangos, papaya, plantains, and sweet lemons from the surrounding flora as we climbed up slippery ledges and leaped into the refreshing turquoise water below. The afternoons came with siestas followed by getting stoked for climbing hard at El Cuajo with its soaring walls rising above farmland that dipped in and out of canons, where the only order resided within the maze of stone walls.

The steep Canon of Huaxtla called our attention one afternoon as we spent a large portion of the time route finding and then battling our way out on one of the many hard multi-pitch routes. The sun set on the green lichen covered walls as we strolled through agave fields and finished our climbing with a roaring bonfire talking about the many untapped cliff bands in the area.

Our time in Guadalajara ended in a festive manner as we joined La Banda in the colonial streets of San Pedro sharing stories and admiring the scenery. We were sad to leave our new friends from Guadalajara but new horizons unfold as we head for the mountain gem of Guanajuato.