Bella Belize

The hot and colorful Caribbean had us leaving the Latin vibe of Mexico and entering the English speaking Creole and Garifuna cultures of sunny Bella Belize. Cruising among sugar cane fields on bumpy roads our spirits were up and our guards down which led to our first police incident. At the first checkpoint within the Belizean border we were hassled by the law and before we realized it our car was being driven to the police station by a corrupt cop who proposed a bribe solution. Getting our wits together we managed to establish a quick plan and left the disappointed official at a gas station peeling out and zooming south towards Dangriga. Later we found out that driving in Belize without car insurance is actually a big deal. Oops.

Small sleepy fishing towns where found a plenty in Belize as Dangriga, Hopkins, Placencia, and Punta Gorda all provided us with a feel for the range of diversity in this slow moving country. Colorfully painted yet weather worn waterfront homes and shacks littered the Caribbean as small beaches with crystal clear glassy water provided one with perfect views of the sea life below. The endless Rastafarian vibe with morning reggae music flowing out of every window had us wandering around in a state of imbalance trying to figure out the cultural mix and where things seemed to be going. But one doesn’t figure out in Belize one just enjoys and goes with it. It bee aarrrright man.

After enjoying some good beach camping in Hopkins as a friendly caretaker named Diego gave us enough coconuts for a lifetime we headed to the touristier Placencia. Here we wondered around, met a handful of interesting folks and gathered some solid information about whitewater rivers in southern Belize from a friendly bar owner who was endeavoring to establish a heli-drop kayaking business in Belize. With AJ’s advice we headed towards the Moho River in the southern highlands near the Guatemalan border. The Moho River flowed smoothing as it winded calmly through the jungle with waterfall after waterfall dropping into the slow pool like water below. The river provided solid thrills with the drops ranging from 2-12ft with a handful of longer rapids in-between. Vic and I made a great team as Vic scouted the drops for me and I pulled him along during the flat sections. Did I mention Vic made the first descent down the Moho River in a longboard? A night of sleeping on uncomfy palm frawns while sharing a small bivy sack had us up early to the second day of the scenic Moho. Abe greeted us at the take out with stories of his river fishing attempts and insect hunting in the jungle. Off to Punta Gorda we went.

Upon entering the small town of PG we met a friendly Peace Corp. volunteer named Mike from New York who welcomed us into his home. After cleaning up we all went out for a large oriental dinner and the introductions began. The amount of volunteer and aid organizations in Punta Gorda was outstanding as we met friendly folks from all of them. The kindness of the aid workers mixed with the laid back vibes of the locals and then with those passing through allowed PG to keep a steady stream of new faces and dynamic energy. The hot nights mixed with an occasional breeze and misty rain allowed us to relax and eat well while new friends shared stories over belkins and reggae music. Leaving Punta Gorda for Guatemala we looked back on the relaxed pace of Belize, friendly inhabitants, jungle rivers, Caribbean tunes, and washed out pastel buildings. Vamos a Guatemala!!