Working in Central America

The past few months working in Central America have been a rollercoaster of experiences filled with remarkable memories, unforgettable faces and lifelong friendships. Since the Southbound crew split up to go their separate ways in May I have stayed and worked in Costa Rica as a river instructor and then journeyed North to Guatemala for more river work.

Working in Costa Rica brought forth its own challenges that were over -shadowed by the kindness of the people, beauty of the country and excitement of the trabajo. We floated along where floods raged and stranded took on another meaning as instructors drifted away on mattresses, camps got evacuated, and a group of 20 became inseparable as days on end were spent staring out at the continuous rain from the comfort of a small farm house in the hills. Bridges were broken, families heli-evacuated, roads closed, yet hot chocolate continued to be poured and the aroma of gallo pinto filled the house.

Weather cleared, Alma dissipated and the pura vida came back in style. Mangos filled kayaks, watermelon and papaya hunting provided good adventures and star fruit clung to near by branches. The country took on a new soul as I worked my way into its interior where the rivers provided epic canyon views, powerful waterfalls, hanging sloths, breathtaking rapids, colorful meals, and constant laughter as my tico brothers and I shared horrible jokes. The time spent in Costa Rica showed me how much I appreciate the people of this lovely country with their farming background mixed with an outdoor education vibe. 7 brothers working side by side on the river from a family of 20. Truly a remarkable familia where roles were played out, nicknames explained, stories re-invented, knowledge shared, recipes received, jokes poked at the bearded gringo and all in all constant hilarity.

The lush Costa Rican landscape proved to be adventure paradise found with its raging rivers, tubular waves, breathtaking hikes, and friendly locals. Leaving for Guatemala I would later discover that in calling Costa Rica “paradise found” the Guatemala which I experienced could be called “paradise lost.”

Arriving to the small town of Lanquin located in Alta Verapaz with my kayak on my shoulder, bag on my back and sprained ankle I hoppled in to Guatemala Rafting camp as the rain refreshed my travel weary body. The friendly Dutch owners greeted me with a warm meal and welcomed me to el paradiso. The morning came with our river deck providing a perfect view of the mist being burned off the jungle mountains. Lanquin is situated among the Alta Verapaz where green mountains are layered upon one another as rivers cut through canyons, limestone pools provide a resting spot in turquoise waters, caves are enjoyed by candlelight and the sleepy mountain town sets its own hours as locals walk along the cobblestone streets in typical Mayan garb. The nearby El Retiro hostel provides all the entrainment needed as viajeros from all over the world gather to enjoy the tranquility provided by the peaceful river flow, lounging in a hammock, listening to the birds chirp, and grooving to the nightly tunes of the Fat Frog bar where drinks are poured - while guests munch on tasty buffets sharing stories of where and when. Could a traveling paddler be happier? For not only does the pueblo hold true to its Mayan mountain town roots, and the hostel provide a great place for wondering and resting, but the rivers rage as massive rapids develop in jungle canyons where first descents are only limited by your lack of imagination aka “transport.”

The rivers Lanquin and Cahabon take you through time as you float solo among sky scraping green peaks where corn grows in the most rugged of slopes and local Quiche women wash clothes and children in the rio giving you a friendly wave or a look of utter bewilderment. The men lug firewood, corn and all sorts of heavy materials strapped to their necks as the little children follow suit with miniature loads. The culture is as rich as the coffee grown in the surrounding fields and one wonders what the locals think of these funny looking extranjeros suited up in bright puffy things, with helmets, funky paddles and wild bravado as they balance on a blue boat cruising down wild waters where only ancient gods or those willing to cross into the other world would dare venture.

The time spent in Lanquin showed me the true colors of this unique country where a civil war just ended and technology is reaching the outskirts with tourism as its guide. Those three months in Guatemala will hold a special place in my fondest memories for the sharing of cultures, friendships, unforgettable experiences and laughable stories let me leave with a greater understanding about this amazingly small mundo around us.

On my return bus ride to Costa Rica I look forward to queso frito, gallo pinto and seeing my tico hermanos y hermanas, Yet the toothless smiles, friendly saludos, deserted rivers, jolly amigos, soothing serenades, and the Mayan culture pull me back to the paradise lost of Guatemala.

Working here in Central America has been an amazing experience filled with so many precious memories and lifelong amistades among beautiful pasajes. I plan on staying in Costa Rica for a little more river time then continue with Southbound Horizons through South America where the mountains of the cordillera blanca summon my climbing spirit.

Hasta la proxima adventura amigos!