Costa Rica - Pura Vida!

The tranquil border crossing led us down the Costa Rican hwy where we luckily found Abe and Ashley hitchhiking towards the beach. It was nice to be together again, “La gran familia.” Ruffles, Vic, Abe, Ashley and I. The dry northern lands of Guanacaste greeted us with cloudful mountains and herding cattle. After a quick stay in Liberia we cruised to the beaches of the Nicoya Peninsula. The overdeveloped city of Tamarindo allowed us to re-supply and fix the long board before moving south to the smaller beach communities. Dirt roads, mangrove forests and hidden cabanas provided the backdrop to the white sandy beach of Playa Avellanas. Squatting on an abandoned beachfront property we past the next few days lying in hammocks, surfing, searching for seashells, playing music and enjoying the beach bum lifestyle. Motivated and refreshed we drove north to the lush jungle region of Volcan Arenal. Windy roads covered by elephant size plants helped shield the constant rain that misted over the pretty lake Arenal hiding the impressive volcano. La Fortuna with its booming tourist industry provided a quick stop for cool mountain air, natural hot springs and family dinners. A rainy morning has us packed up and off to the busy, congested and secretive capitol of San Jose.

The sprawl of San Jose provided a stark contrast from the sunny beaches and misty mountains of the rest of Costa Rica. Ma Cheri Cecile greeted us and got us situated for the next couple days of goodbyes, bienvenidos and airport runs. The nights provided hilarious entertainment for the Imperial Beer Music Festival was being held just outside the city in the surrounding farmland. With no tickets and hope for an easy entry we parked on the outskirts listening to Costa Rican rock and when it came time for the headline bands of Incubus and Smashing Pumpkins we pulled off the greatest break-in of all time. Which involved crawling through mud, leaping fences, dodging security and a black eye. Yet we made it inside and the music roared as thousands of Ticos sang along. Que Locura!!

Returning to the airport we said goodbye to Ashley wishing her luck in West Virginia, climb hard sista! Ruffles bid adieu, for the islands of Panama beckoned his artisan skills and Heather was now with us after a long flight from CA. So Abe, Vic, Heather and I cruised towards the beach with sun, surf and relax on our minds. Our first stop was Puntarenas to meet up with Abe’s friend. A packed beach house with studying internationals welcomed us as stories were shared over cold beverages and sunset slackline sessions. My birthday arrived as we set off on the ferry to Montezuma for some clear water, sandy beaches, wave action and small surf town vibes. A great day topped with a vino inspired ferry ride and beach side dinner with three very dear amigos, que buen cumpleanos! The sticky rustic port feel of Puntarenas as a city left to the will of the scorching sun, calloused hands and jaded paint followed us alone our way to Dominical.

Bumpy roads bordered by coastal cliffs and palm plantations had us scooting into Dominical where sarongs hung from palm trees and rental cars full of surfboards lined the beach as wooden tiendas and cute eateries clustered together around main street. Dominical had kept its small surf town feel and artsy vibe. Let’s hope it continues to shun the overdevelopment that has plagued much of the rest of coastal Costa Rica. Before getting situated we said our final goodbyes to Abe as he grabbed a bus up north to explore some hidden boulders before flying back to CA for a summer chasing bugs and climbing. His manera de ser will be missed, “buena suerte amigo!” We found a wonderful place to stay on the outskirts of town where we met some friendly guests from Holland and Australia. Days in Dominical were passed surfing, fixing broken boards, walking the beach, playing connect four, watching breathtaking sunsets, cooking gourmet meals under a tin roof, and afternoon treks to hidden waterfalls where the cool water oasis of San Cristobel touched to sky.

After a few days in Dominical we drove back to San Jose for final goodbyes. Heather flew away leaving Vic and I together to pass one more evening of recuerdos and storytelling before his flight for CA. With Vic’s departure thus marks the end of the first leg of Southbound Horizons, he will be missed but his presence will be felt and inspire new adventures when Southbound Horizons heads to Patagonia. Driving alone through the basurafied streets of San Jose many memories flooded my mind thinking about all the amazing adventures, experiences and wonderful people through Central America; 9,000 miles over 115 days, so many stories, so many wonders.

Until late September / early October the Southbound Horizons journey through South America will be put on hold for some amazing work opportunities in Costa Rica and Guatemala have presented themselves for the summer. I am currently working as a river and land instructor for Costa Rica Rainforest Outward Bound School http://www.crrobs.org/ and in early July will be heading up to Lanquin, Guatemala to work as a river guide on the Rio Cahabon with Guatemala Rafting. If you want to take a stellar river trip on a beautiful and exciting river through some the most magnificent landscapes in all of Central America then check out the website guatemalarafting.com or http://home.planet.nl/~bleij383/

Dear faithful readers, thank you for keeping our journeys in mind and heart and keep an eye or finger click ready for October when Southbound Horizons continuous through the next continent full of adventure, purpose, culture and buena onda.

“The future holds the realization of a wonderers dreams, greetings from exotic lands and the gratification of never knowing what follows the next horizon. “ -AH

Nica Nica Nicaragua

Nicaragua proved to be a country so rich in culture that we melted into the mix of it all with submissive ease. Arriving in Leon late in the afternoon we found an energetic hostel where we met a handful of folks who had some solid recommendations about the country. Leon allowed us to relax, wonder around the city streets in search for savory street food, and collect information from other travelers. We left the backpacker scene of Leon and ventured south towards Granada. Getting an early start we decided to spend a few hours at Playa Pochomil surfing and lounging in the sun. The beach was desolate with ok waves and seemed to be a perfect stop before entering the city of Granada where glamorous architecture gleamed above the central plaza. The quite, clean and comfortable Oasis hostel became our base camp for exploring the colonial lakeside city of Granada. Wondering the streets we seemed to always find ourselves arriving in the central plaza where the night lights lit up the open plaza for friendly soccer games where broken bikes provided goals for the serious street competitors. The city was alive at night with hidden bars, international cuisine, lovers on park benches, international movies at the cultural center, greasily scrumptious street food, and music flowing out of second story windows. During the day the bustle surrounded the market and cars zoomed around the abandoned streets from anoche. Hanging out in hammocks during the mid day sun we struck up a friendship with some volunteers at a nearby orphanage who proceeded to invite us to come visit.

We arrived at San Jorge and drove the back roads towards the lake side orphanage of Casa Asis. Mary and Siri welcomed us in and began to introduce us the children, teachers, and other volunteers. The children were so full of love as they came running to hug the bearded visitors. The smiles and laughter seemed to never end as the children ran around, giggled at our accents, tugged on our facial hair and welcomed us into their community. To see these joyful children from ages 2-7 here in a safe environment where they were genuinely loved and cared for after coming from street lives, abusive families or unwanting parents overflowed my heart with happiness. After spending the day with the kids we stayed at the orphanage that night hanging out with Mary & Siri. Their hospitality seemed endless as we ate typical Nicaraguan food and shared stories before acostando en una buena cama. Breakfast with the ninos and off to la Isla de Ometepe. The orphanage looked out at Lake Nicaragua where two stunning volcanoes rose out of the waters upon the forested Isla. We waved goodbye to the kids and promised we would return within the next few days.

A choppy ferry ride over had us on the island and eventually walking 10 kilometers of dirt roads through small towns, farmland and lake side beaches to the Italian run organic farm of Zopilote. The jungle finca which attracted peace loving travelers with a desire to eat good natural food, work on the farm or just rest in hammocks became our home stay on the island. We met many friendly folks while munching on fresh bread, home made jams, organic nutella, and mud oven pizza. Days passed playing chess, swimming in the lake, comiendo bien, swinging in hammocks, reading, sharing travel stories and watching the sun set behind the volcano creating a colorful palate upon the lake water below. A couple of days of relax on the Island had me ready to get back to the orphanage and hang out with the kids. We met up with a traveling artesian / cook from France with a Mexican accent and buena onda. Riding la lancha back to San Jorge we walked the beach to the orphanage following the sounds of laughter coming from the fields below. It was “field day” and all the kids came running over grabbing our hands and inviting us to take part in the day’s activities. Mary greeted us with an amazing lunch spread; it felt good to be back at Casa Asis. A day of games, laughter, smiles and heeeelarity proceeded. It felt good to be part of something so positive, being welcomed into the orphanage was a genuinely unique experience that provided a sense of purpose and community for us. It was hard to leave the happy faces and new friendships of Casa Asis. Waving goodbye to Mary, Siri and los ninos we pilled in the car and drove to Costa Rica.

Crossing into Costa Rica we waited patiently until all the papers were in order and were soon on our way towards the Nicoya Peninsula. Just about to leave the border we ran back into Abe and Ashley from Oregon hitchhiking. They had stayed on the island for a couple days longer and now we were all re-acquainted to start our adventures through Costa Rica. Rufles, Ashley, Vic, Abe and I all squeezed into the already gear packed Blazer and zoomed south. The good vibes of Nicaragua, its people, food, new friendships, beautiful landscape, stunning structures and rich culture floated through the air on our journey towards the lesser traveled beaches of northern Costa Rica. Pura Vida man!!!!

El Salvador

A peaceful entry into El Salvador had us cruising along the coastal roads in no time. The dry deforested landscape melted into the bright blue waters of the pacific as locals waved and whistled our way. Playa Sunzal beckoned us to stay with its laid back beach vibe and the only dangers being falling mangos and runaway sugar cane trucks. We met the energetic owner of “El Hostel” and struck up a deal to work off our lodging. A seasonal firefighter from California who loved to work hard, surf and brew beer. Cody was creating his dream and it was exciting helping him shape his visions for El Hostel. Dan and I passed the days with early morning surf sessions, with the best point break in the country a meer 200m down the vine littered path where the sun sparkled through the foliage creating a mystical entrance to the perfect waves that awaited. Afternoons were spent painting, digging, building shelves, lying in hammocks and enjoying Latin tunes. Los noches came with slack lining, beach bouldering, sunset surf, and family dinners. We were reunited with Abe & Vic after a week in Sunzal and the buena onda del lugar had us staying for a few more days enjoying the beach. Day treks to waterfalls, plaza relaxation, highline antics, and grander dinners all came with the traveling group growing, while laughter echoed through the hallway and competitive foosball games brought cheers! Leaving Playa Sunzal we knew we would be back to see Cody’s dream hostel finito and explore the hidden caves along the coast where the enojado ocean had denied our entrance.

Leaving the beach we traveled up north to the quaint mountain village of Suchitoto. We spent the next couple of days eating fresh bread, enjoying the peaceful lake views offered by our hospedaje, exploring the quiet colonial streets as locals greeted us with kind smiles and open arms. The pace of life seemed to be frozen in a state of tranquilidad with the revolutionary history of the area having a nubloso effect on the townsfolk, and hope for a peaceful future provided smiles that helped clear the countries darker past. The state of delirium was broken when we left for San Salvador and said our good byes to Dan and our new El Salvador traveling amigo, Chris from Montana. They were heading north back to Guatemala while we drove south to re-coger Abe and head towards Nicaragua via Honduras.

The most feared, corrupt and loco border crossing awaited us at El Amatillo. Leaving the El Salvador section wasn’t too bad but the amazingly coordinated Mafioso-like entrance into El Honduras proved to be muy caro. Cabrones!!! After much hassle, fast talking, running around in circles, and finally giving in to the realization that everyone was “in on it” we paid the fees and crossed into Honduras. The southern tip of Honduras allowed us to see very little of the country in under 2 hours before crossing into Nicaragua. During that time through Honduras we reflected back on the amazing time we spent exploring El Salvador with its friendly villagers, greasy pupusas, epic surf, family dinners, afternoon hammock meditations, sense of purpose and overall good times. With little knowledge about the country and its pasaje we entered Nicaragua open-minded and in need of a good rest after driving from central El Salvador.

Guatemala

Crossing into Guatemala proved to be less hectic than expected as we were soon on our way toward Coban. The pavement turned to dirt as late night construction had us breaking the cardinal rule; NO driving at night! Entering Coban, we chowed on some tasty street food and walked around. Our first morning in Guatemala brought delicious pastries and a little bit of backtracking to the highland village of Lanquin. Set among the layered mountains of north eastern Guatemala, Lanquin sat amidst the turquoise waters of the mighty Rio Cahabon. A friendly and unique hostel with an energetic international vibe provided a picturesque eco-lodge atmosphere for the next few days. One could camp by the river, wake up to an amazing desayuno and slide the kayak into the cool waters for some exciting Class III-V rapids ranging from 1hr to multi-day runs. Nights were full of traveler talk, games, good food and wild stories. We had fallen into the “gringo” trail which encompasses southern Mexico, and Guatemala. Everyone was going our way or coming from that way, recommendations por todos lados. El Retiro came out of the travel channel which made it that much harder to leave the thatched roofs, Mayan art, swinging hammocks, veggie conscious menu, colorful gardens and captivating crowds.

Leaving the green mountains we lost elevation as the colonial capital of Antigua had us gazing up at the mighty volcanoes that surrounded the beautiful city. Entering Antigua we listened to the instructions of our new traveling amigo Kurt. He had us safe and sound in a cozy Posada in no time. His friendly demeanor, engaging conversations, interesting history and hippied out, eco-conscious vibe made the long ride seem short and restless walks more enjoyable. Meandering around Antigua we were struck by the similarities between the other colonial towns we visited, yet Antigua seemed to have lost some of its magic with the amount of tourist traffic that bustled around the cobblestone streets. Waking up to the smoking volcanoes and esperanza for some good coffee, only brought theft and broken spirits. The “oh so peaceful” atmosphere of Antigua turned out to be a cloud covered hot bed for car robberies and we became yet another victim of the street. The theft led to some changes in plans and soon we were running around town trying to find the culprits. With no leads and many unhelpful shrugs we packed up our remaining gear and escaped to the quite Lake Atitlan.

The colorful, free spirited, peace loving village of San Pedro comforted us from our mishap in Antigua. We rested by the tranquil lake nestled among green volcanoes, ate amazing food, met up with traveling friends, hiked up sacred Mayan routes, and established some new plans. Leaving San Pedro we cruised up north to Xela where cool mountain breezes had us bundled up at night ready to climb in the surrounding hillsides. La Chicua and La Muela provided a dramatic climbing landscape among old lava flows, where clouds covered the valley below and religious chanting echoed through the hills, giving one an eerie spiritual feeling. It felt good to be out camping again and with a new traveling buddy named Dan, who hailed from Canada and studied at Columbia, whose scholastic roots and laidback vibe seemed to mesh well with our dynamic. After climbing and enjoying the cool volcanic atmosphere, the group spilt up as Vic and Abe went back to Lake Atitlan to study Spanish for a week and Dan and I rolled south.

Another night in Antigua had us camping in the police compound and exploring some possible robbery leads. With no new information about our stolen gear we headed towards El Volcan Pacaya where a horse ride up to the magnificent peak and jumping around an active lava flow had us gazing into the sunset towards El Salvador as the lava blazed among the dark volcanic rock. A day of climbing around Lake Amititlan where crack lines and an overhead gondola for spectators had us good and tuckered out before leaving for El Salvador the next day. While zooming through the mountain roads, towards the border, images were evoked of active volcanoes, raging rapids, eerie climbing, tasty street food, friendly travelers, tranquil lakes, peaceful towns and breathtaking landscapes. Guatemala is a country so rich in its diversity of terrain and colorful culture, an amazing pais with countless possibilities for exploration.

The little known El Salvador loomed on the horizon. Would it be the El Salvador that people warned us not to enter with highway robberies, kidnappings, bribery, and not so scenic landscape? Or, would it be endless black sand beaches, generous locals, untainted villages, great surf; a recuperating gem? Let’s hope for the latter. Vamos a El Salvador!

Bella Belize

The hot and colorful Caribbean had us leaving the Latin vibe of Mexico and entering the English speaking Creole and Garifuna cultures of sunny Bella Belize. Cruising among sugar cane fields on bumpy roads our spirits were up and our guards down which led to our first police incident. At the first checkpoint within the Belizean border we were hassled by the law and before we realized it our car was being driven to the police station by a corrupt cop who proposed a bribe solution. Getting our wits together we managed to establish a quick plan and left the disappointed official at a gas station peeling out and zooming south towards Dangriga. Later we found out that driving in Belize without car insurance is actually a big deal. Oops.

Small sleepy fishing towns where found a plenty in Belize as Dangriga, Hopkins, Placencia, and Punta Gorda all provided us with a feel for the range of diversity in this slow moving country. Colorfully painted yet weather worn waterfront homes and shacks littered the Caribbean as small beaches with crystal clear glassy water provided one with perfect views of the sea life below. The endless Rastafarian vibe with morning reggae music flowing out of every window had us wandering around in a state of imbalance trying to figure out the cultural mix and where things seemed to be going. But one doesn’t figure out in Belize one just enjoys and goes with it. It bee aarrrright man.

After enjoying some good beach camping in Hopkins as a friendly caretaker named Diego gave us enough coconuts for a lifetime we headed to the touristier Placencia. Here we wondered around, met a handful of interesting folks and gathered some solid information about whitewater rivers in southern Belize from a friendly bar owner who was endeavoring to establish a heli-drop kayaking business in Belize. With AJ’s advice we headed towards the Moho River in the southern highlands near the Guatemalan border. The Moho River flowed smoothing as it winded calmly through the jungle with waterfall after waterfall dropping into the slow pool like water below. The river provided solid thrills with the drops ranging from 2-12ft with a handful of longer rapids in-between. Vic and I made a great team as Vic scouted the drops for me and I pulled him along during the flat sections. Did I mention Vic made the first descent down the Moho River in a longboard? A night of sleeping on uncomfy palm frawns while sharing a small bivy sack had us up early to the second day of the scenic Moho. Abe greeted us at the take out with stories of his river fishing attempts and insect hunting in the jungle. Off to Punta Gorda we went.

Upon entering the small town of PG we met a friendly Peace Corp. volunteer named Mike from New York who welcomed us into his home. After cleaning up we all went out for a large oriental dinner and the introductions began. The amount of volunteer and aid organizations in Punta Gorda was outstanding as we met friendly folks from all of them. The kindness of the aid workers mixed with the laid back vibes of the locals and then with those passing through allowed PG to keep a steady stream of new faces and dynamic energy. The hot nights mixed with an occasional breeze and misty rain allowed us to relax and eat well while new friends shared stories over belkins and reggae music. Leaving Punta Gorda for Guatemala we looked back on the relaxed pace of Belize, friendly inhabitants, jungle rivers, Caribbean tunes, and washed out pastel buildings. Vamos a Guatemala!!

San Cristobal de las Casas to Belize

Peeking through the surrounding clouds within the sheltered pine forest, San Cristobal de las Casas welcomed us with a misty drizzle. We stayed at a lovely hostel and ventured into the colonial town of Chiapas to explore among the patter of the rain. The cool mountain air and small droplets gave us new energy on a trip full of sun and heat. Dancing among the puddles we wondered around amazing markets, met friendly artisans, sipped warm hot chocolate and ate tasty pastries. The nights gave way to new friends made in the comfortable hostel where pasta dinners, fresh juices, posh and tasty salads were split among new amigos from six different countries. Day trips to San Juan Chamula allowed us to take a look into an exclusively Mayan village, where animal sacrifices and old healing methods still take place within the church and colorful markets clutter the plaza square. Picture taking is forbidden for it steals the soul of the subject. Many hugs and emails were exchanged as we departed San Cristobal de las Casas and all the friendly travelers we met.

On the way to visit the jungle ruins of Palenque and Calakmul a long Zapatista road block stalled our progress along the mountain roads. A night in the jungle had us awakening to the calls of howler monkeys and an early entrance into the famous ruins of Palenque. Tall Mayan pyramids shadowed the jungle below as cool water creeks weaved in and out of the lofty structures. Walking among the tourists we headed out of the park, overwhelmed and looked forward to the less visited ruins of Calakmul. After a long drive through the canopy covered highway to the ranger station of Calakmul we made friends with the forest rangers and set up camp. With some enthusiastic natural history lessons and solid advice on a sunrise start to the ruins, we slept among wild mountain turkeys dreaming of exploring the 100 sq/km with 6500 structures, hidden like gems in the dense overgrowth. An alpine start had us on top of one of the pyramids for the sunrise over the rainforest where monkeys jumped through trees, howlers awoke the jungle, colorful birds flew toward the sun, and ones eyes lost focus as the jungle stretched beyond view in all directions. Playing explorer we had the ruins to ourselves to discover as we climbed tropical trees, uncovered hidden pottery, slept in Mayan mansions, yelled over the canopy, chassed wild turkeys and wandered the miles of overgrown trails. We finished a 12 hour day of running around the ruins with an amazing sunset as we sat atop of the jungle canopy looking towards Guatemala and reflecting upon our solitude within the ancient capitol city of the kingdom of the Serpents Head.

Leaving the Mayan ruins and thick jungle we departed Mexico after two months of travel through such an amazing country. A hint of remorse arose, yet was soon healed by the ocean breeze, crystal blue-green water and unique Caribbean vibes of Belize. With only a little trouble and many hoops to jump through at the border we were soon cruising down the Hummingbird highway, through fields of sugar cane and rows of citrus trees, with our passports stamped.

Playa Ventura to Tuxtla Gutiérrez, Chiapas

Puerto Escondido welcomed us with its rolling surf and fun loving traveler vibe where we lounged in our beach side grass hut for a couple of days. The waves awoke us por la manana for early surf & bouldering sessions, followed by afternoons of hammock time and evening walks on the beach, as the sand lit up with each step, releasing a unique luminescent energy in glowing bursts. Next stop, the low key backpacker hideaway of Mazunte which allowed for more relaxation time on the Oaxacan coast. Tucked away among the trees, the makeshift campsite provided freedom to an eclectic group of travelers mixed with “rainbow” gatherers. The excellent beach bouldering gave us a morning activity as the midday sun came with mandatory siestas and dips in the Pacific. Noches of care free reggae music, jungle hikes to town, colorful sunsets, drum circles, Italian love songs and sticky sleep filled our dreams as we entered inland Oaxaca. The curvy roads had us keeping a keen lookout for the capital city and its flat valley floor. Camping among the shadows of Monte Alban under the watchful eye of a goat herder we awoke early to explore the fabulous Zapotec Ruins that look over the colonial city of Oaxaca. Monte Alban blew us away with its intricate acropolis, large temples, and rich history. Leaving the fabled ruins we wondered around La Ciudad de Oaxaca exploring the maze of markets and beautiful architecture before departing for a long journey to Chiapas.

After a long drive through some spectacular mountains littered with agave fields we arrived in Tuxtla Gutiérrez the capital of Chiapas. Another amazing family greeted us with open arms as they provided us with a fresh shower, food and great company. Mama Nanni was ever the amazing hostess providing delicious food, friendly conversation and insights into la vida de Chiapas. We said our goodbyes to the kind ladies and promised to return to explore the canons, rivers and more of the culture of Tuxtla. We now enter the mountains of Chiapas where the jungles of Mexico and Central America begin with the hidden colonial city of San Cristobal de las Casas while the many ruins of the surrounding selva await us with there Mayan secrets.